You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Thread starter Sumirange Start date Jan 10, Tags strobe seasea ysttl.
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You can make this box go away Joining is quick and easy. Sumirange New. Messages 3 Reaction score 0 Location Japan. Hi all, I am a beginner of underwater photography. I need guys help! Hoag Contributor.
I am not sure if you got a manual with it or not, but if you didn't, here is a link to a site with the manual as a. I did not read it in depth, but I did skim over it and it would appear to me that you need to hook the strobe up using a "sync cord" not by a fiber optic cable. A sync cord synchronizes you strobe to the camera electronically usually via the hot shoe on the camera , It has nothing to do with whether the camera is film or digital.
Without knowing your specific gear, my guess is that your housing may not have the capability to support the strobe connection via sync cords. KeithG Guest. As you guessed the YS is not "digital ready". But all is not lost. Ardy Contributor. I used one for about 3 years as a slave with optical cable and it worked well. Thank you for guys's replying!
It is now possible to give a low powered flash so the correct exposure can be easily achieved with the YS-D2. EV control function can finely tune the amount of light emitted. By controlling the actual flash light level, the strobe achieves accurate exposure compensation with EV compensation. Two diffusers and red filters included with the strobe as standard. By attaching one of the included diffusers, the beam angle is increased to o or o circular with a soft and even light.
The red target light filter helps avoid disturbing skittish creatures that are likely to react to normal light. The red filter is fitted inside the diffusers. Diffuser with red filter attached. With the Diffuser In use target light switch in ON position , the light will be automatically turn off when the strobe fires and will automatically turn back ON after 0.
Handling is greatly improved. Larger knobs and a new magnetic rotary switch help prevent controls being accidentally reset in use. With the new controls, quick operation is possible when photo opportunities suddenly appear. All I can say is WOW. For the most part, I think some people really don't know what Pre-detonation is or what it sounds like.
Detonation is when the piston is coming up on the compression stroke, the fuel will explode and the expanding gases will push down on the piston. This explosion will happen around 42 degrees before top dead center. This means that the fuel is starting to burn before the piston reaches the top.
Pre-detonation is when the fuel is starting to burn before 42 degrees or way too soon. This is when the engine will start working against it's self.
If the explosion is too soon, the piston has to work harder to reach the top. The sound you hear is a pinging or rattling type notes usually just before the spinner and prop start to fly off.
Yes the YS engines are fuel injected but it is a different story when the engine is at idle. The fuel system changes from injected to sucking the fuel. When you first fire up your engine you always want to run it rich But after break-in you start to lean out the top end to the max RPM's. Hopefully you are not exceeding 9, rpm's????? That is for the , and The 53's like to run at 11,rpm's.
Next you want to bring your engine to an idle. The proper idle is 2,rpm's. Not 22 or 25 or , set it at 2, This is when the engine starts to suck the fuel via vaccume. Above 2, it will start to inject the fuel. After you warm it up and slowly bring the engine up to full throttle, set the top end to it's max rpm's and back off or richen up the needle clicks.
After the top end is set, bring it to the idle 2,rpm's. From full throttle set your trim so it will hit 2, instantly not drop slowly like 35,30,25,22,2, After about 3 seconds, the engine will start to let you know if it is to lean or rich. If the mixture is to rich, the rpm's will start to slow down 2, 19,18, Lean the low end. If the mixture is to lean, the rpm's will start to speed up 2, 21,22, Richen up the low end.
Remember, after you adjust the low end, always bring it back to full throttle and back to an idle to test your adjustments. Do not let it idle for 10,20 seconds and try to adjust again.
You must bring it to full first and back down to check the adjustment,. After adjusting the low end, it should idle at 2, consistently for about 20 seconds. After the 20 seconds, bring it back up to full throttle by rolling the throttle stick up. Roll it. It should take you just over 1 second to go from idle to full throttle.
Another trick to test if the mixture is correct is to pull off the fuel line at the carburetor at idle. There should not be any fuel coming out of the fuel line. If you do, you are still too rich. This is best done on the bench and not on the plane,.
With this last test, many other factors can cause fuel to come out of the fuel line at idle,. I hope this will be of some help, Rick Mattie. Try these techniques. The only connections I have had NOT come loose are those where I used teflon tape - specifically headers and mufflers it also seals the threads and eliminates the varnish buildup. I have not had experience with gas engined planes, but zero loose nuts or lost mufflers with 26 to glo 4-strokes, OS and YS.
If you want to try "red" loctite, be sure to check the product number. Some reds number , for instance are "service removable" - low heat, not very aggressive. Charlie Anchorage, AK. I use red loctite on both ends of the steel nipple which screws into the muffler and into the engine head. The loctite deteoriates with heat, which is what allows you to be able to get it off, but it leaves enough gook in there, that I have never lost a muffler.
On the other end I drill and tap through the side of the muffler where the aft end screws on. This plus a little red loctite keeps the end on. Loctite sponsored a pattern contest in Atlanta this year and gave away a bunch of Loctite goodies to all who entered. Bob Roe, a Loctite rep, was asked what to use for this application and he agreed that the red is the appropriate thing to use.
Ken Blackwell. I have seen and read many things about running and maintaining these engines over the last couple of years; most points I have agreed with, some I don't. I hope this information will be helpful to both those who have experience with these engines and those new to them. I have seen this happen with engines that had less than a gallon of fuel thru them.
With the YS gasket it will be just a matter of time before it will need to be replaced. Go ahead and replace it now. The instructions call for 1. Too lean and the engine will go lean in transition, and often get the piston so hot it will expand and begin to seize on the sleeve.
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